|ST.ABBs - CATHEDRAL ROCK|
First discovered in the 1950s, Cathedral Rock is one of the UK's most popular dive sites, and possibly one of the most dived sites in the whole of the British Isles. Saying that, many divers often fail to find Cathedral Rock, relying on poor information or bad navigational skills. More often than not they are just enjoying themselves so much, diving the rest of the area off St Abbs harbour wall, that they never get as far as Cathedral Rock. These are the divers who like to wax poetic about the dive, talking of the shafts of light and cathedral-like atmosphere!
Cathedral Rock is part of the reef that runs perpendicular to the corner of St Abbs harbour wall, known locally as Thistly Briggs. The 'rock' of Cathedral Rock is never visible, even at the lowest of tides, and many divers actually mistake a reef close by for it.
Underwater, the wall falls away and is deeply undercut by horizontal strata lines eroded away by the movement of the water, and now filled with squat lobsters and leopard-spotted gobies.
The top tunnel is known as the Keyhole, and during the diving season there is often so much trapped air in one of the small upper recesses that you can 'surface' and have a chat with your buddy while still 8m underwater. The lower tunnel archway is massive-of double-decker-bus proportions-with a stony bottom directly under the arch, and a tumble of boulders at each side.
Visibility is variable, depending on the prevailing winds and current, but is generally good. The walls and the roof of the arches are festooned in a dwarf species of the plumose anemone (Metridium senile), as well as sponges, soft corals, mussels and hydroids.
Small schools of pollack are often herded into this natural arena by predatory cod; and the photographic possibilities of this dive are endless, with panoramic vistas of the archways, diver portraits, diver-interaction shots and, of course, the simply staggering number of macro subjects, such as nudibranchs, crabs and molluscs.
There is a resident family of ballan wrasse (Labrus bergylta), which will feed out of divers' hands but, sadly, it has been noted that some unscrupulous divers have been known to chop up a sea urchin or five to feed the wrasse. Divers are discouraged from feeding the fish with any of the other local residents: why kill another animal to try to get better photographs? If you obey the conservation code you will be amply rewarded.
Due to the position of the rocky reef and two huge holes through it, Cathedral Rock is often swept by current funnelled through the archways. Although it rarely exceeds one knot, it can still be a bit of a swim back to the safety of the inner reef. Cathedral Rock is really a shore dive, but for those of you who are too lazy to swim the 50m and decide take your new RIB to the site, please consider the other divers and snorkellers in the area, as well as the submerged reefs surrounding Cathedral Rock.
This site can be dived all year round, but as always, the east-coast weather patterns are somewhat variable and diving is liable to be cancelled at the last minute, so remember to telephone one of the dive shops or your B&B or hotel well in advance to check on the diving conditions.
The best access to dive Cathedral Rock is from the southern side of the harbour wall where the wall joins a low, rocky reef. Directly opposite the entry point is another huge rock called Big Green Carr, which offers shelter, except in the most exceptional circumstances.
Once in the water, drop down to 6m on to the small sand-and-gravel patch smothered in hermit crabs, then swim over to the facing near-vertical wall. Follow it along, keeping it to your left, and travel on as far as you can go. Then cross over a small headland which juts out from the right, swim straight on to the next facing wall, which is part of Thistly Briggs, and by keeping the wall to your right you will come to Cathedral Rock. The average depth is 8 -14m.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
For those coming from the south to St Abbs, travel up the A1 trunk road until you reach Scotland! Turn second right along the Eyemouth to Coldingham road, the A1107. In Coldingham village square, take a tight turning to your right, which is well signposted to St Abbs. As you approach the village, the road splits into two. To get to St Abbs harbour, take the main branch to the right: if you carry straight on, the single-track road will pass through Northfield Farm and continues up to St Abbs lighthouse above the National Nature Reserve. St.Abbs is about 7km off the A1.
For those of you who have invested in expensive GPS gizmos and insist on diving by boat, Cathedral Rock is at Lat: 550 53' 55'N, Long: 020 07' 29'W. Better still, invest in Ordnance Survey Pathfinder 423 Map sheet NT 86 / 96 GR 922 673 or Admiralty chart No 160. There is a slipway at St Abbs harbour and fees are £10 each day to keep your boat moored in the harbour (including launching ). A number of dive clubs launch their boats at Eyemouth, where it is free, and motor up to St Abbs to pick up their divers to avoid the St Abbs harbour fees. This is not only cheap, it annoys the locals and other dive clubs. Be warned that if you bring your boat into St Abbs harbour you will be charged.
The Head Start cafe at the junction of the St Abbs road at Northfield Farm is particularly popular with divers and ramblers. It has soup, scones, toasties and a couple of hot specials each day.
Springbank Cottage (see accomodation), has a very popular tea garden at St Abbs harbour, where divers are welcomed (even while still wet) for hot soup, burgers, crab sandwiches and the like.
The Old Bakehouse in Eyemouth is very good, serving traditional fish fare as well as daily specials (tel: 018907 50265; it can also be reserved for groups in the evenings). Both Eyemouth and Coldingham have traditional fish and chip shops and there is also a Chinese take-away in Eyemouth. All of the surrounding pubs (there are none in St Abbs) have the regular bar meals. For something special you have to go further afield, but Edinburgh is only 50 minutes' drive up the A1.
The two compressors in the area are located at the dive centres attached to the two caravan parks (see accommodation).
Eyemouth Diving Centre is at Eyemouth Holiday Park (tel/fax: 018907 51202; e-mail: email@example.com). Eyemouth is a registered BSAC and PADI school with equipment sales and rental, boat hire, air and enriched air.
Scoutscroft Diving Centre is in Coldingham, 3km from St Abbs and the sea (tel: 018907 71669). It is a registered PADI school, with equipment sales and rental, boat hire and a new updated air machine with key function.
In St Abbs village only B&B-type lodging is available. Two of the most popular are Springbank Cottage (tel: 018907 71477, fax: 018907 71577), and The Rest (tel: 018907 71681). Nearby, in Coldingham, the most popular guest house with divers is Melville House (tel/fax: 018907 71231 e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org). Costs are £16 for B&B with parking for cars and boats. Most visiting divers stay at one of the caravan parks in Eyemouth or Coldingham. Eyemouth Holiday Park is at the start of the St Abbs and Eyemouth Marine Reserve (tel: 018907 51050, fax: 018907 51462).
Scoutscroft Holiday Centre is in the centre of Coldingham (tel: 018907 71338, fax: 018907 71746, e-mail: Scoutscroft @compuserve.com). Both holiday parks have ample parking, clubs, pubs and Scottish Tourist Board approved caravans for rent. Costs start at £85 for a weekend for six sharing a unit.
Further information can be obtained from the Eyemouth
Tourist Information Centre in the Auld Kirk at Eyemouth Market
Place (open Easter to October, tel: 018907 50678) or from Scottish Borders
Tourist Board, Municipal Buildings, 70 High Street, Selkirk (open all
year round, tel: 01750 20555, fax: 01750 21886).
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