For me, though, a more straightforward dive in the Brannock Islands at the north of the Arans still stands out most. Here, the sea-bed consisted of a series of overhung steps, and in visibility of 25m-plus (the sun had broken through at last), was perhaps the most colourful dive that I have ever undertaken in temperate water. Every available square centimetre of rock was covered in life: large, multicoloured jewel anemones on the overhangs were interspersed with clumps of yellow dead men's fingers, with red seaweeds and kelp swaying above them. Blue and orange male cuckoo wrasse came and investigated us, fighting off rivals (we were infringing their territory), and even took nips at our cameras and fins. Corkwing wrasse flitted through the kelp in small groups, scaring themselves by turning to glance at us before scuttling away. Occasionally a crawfish would betray its presence, its feelers noticeably protruding from under an overhang as we swam over the top. That dive remains a treasured memory of just how enchanting and beautiful the marine environment can be; it felt a real privilege to be in such an undersea wonderland.

The Aran Islands and their surroundings do offer some stunning diving, of particular appeal for anyone interested in marine natural history and wanting to see extraordinary underwater scenery. Weather-dictated diving such as this does also mean accepting a degree of discomfort. It is not for the inexperienced, and requires tough, no-nonsense equipment. The Arans themselves are very much worth a visit (though we used them as extended lunch-stops) with their unique scenery, wild coastlines and friendly welcome. Hired mountain bikes proved to be an excellent and cheap way to explore Inishmor; and Connemara, which also serves up stunning scenery, merits more than a little visiting time.

WISH YOU WERE THERE?

Travelling time : Ferries from the UK, Holyhead to Dublin, 2-3 hours

Drive time: Dublin to Galway, about 150 miles, 4-5 hours

In Connemara: Distances are deceptive with stunning scenery and sometimes narrow, windy roads which can be rough. Allow much longer than anticipated for comparable distances elsewhere.

Eating out: Many good restaurants thoughout Connemara and in Galway, ranging from very reasonable to quite expensive. Seafood is excellent. Pubs often have live music and of course, Guinness, served properly here.

Galway Bay Scubadivers (Nick Pfeiffer) Tel: 00 353 91 592113 Mobile: 00 353 88 653024 Fax: 00 353 91 563004